Glossary
Plain-language definitions for the ingredients, techniques, and terms we use every day. Click any term for the full explainer.
All Terms
Skincare
Niacinamide
aka: Vitamin B3, NicotinamideA form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, regulates sebum, and reduces the appearance of pores. Typically used at 2–10% in leave-on products. Can cause flushing in sensitive skin when combined with vitamin C or at high concentrations.
Retinol
aka: Vitamin A1A vitamin A derivative that accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen, and improves texture. Start with 0.3% and increase gradually. Use at night only; always pair with SPF. Alternatives for sensitive skin: bakuchiol, retinaldehyde, or prescription tretinoin.
Hyaluronic Acid
aka: HA, Sodium HyaluronateA humectant that holds up to 1,000x its weight in water. Works best on damp skin, sealed with an occlusive. Low-molecular-weight forms penetrate deeper; high-molecular-weight forms sit on the surface and plump.
Ceramides
aka: Ceramide ComplexLipids that make up ~50% of the skin barrier. Restoring ceramides improves water retention and reduces transepidermal water loss. Look for ceramide NP, AP, EOP, NS, and phytosphingosine in moisturisers for barrier repair.
Bakuchiol
aka: Babchi ExtractA plant-derived retinol alternative from the babchi plant. Provides surface-level brightening and anti-inflammatory benefits without the irritation profile of retinol. Safe for pregnancy in most contexts, but consult your dermatologist.
Squalane
aka: Squalane (not to be confused with squalene)A stable, non-comedogenic hydrocarbon derived from olives or sugarcane. Mimics the skin's natural sebum. Excellent for dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin. Sits well under sunscreen and makeup.
Vitamin C
aka: L-Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl GlucosideL-ascorbic acid and its derivatives. A potent antioxidant that brightens, protects against free radicals, and supports collagen synthesis. Best used in the morning under SPF. Unstable in light and air; store in opaque, airless packaging.
SPF
aka: Sun Protection Factor, Broad-SpectrumSun Protection Factor. Measures UVB protection only. Broad-spectrum covers UVA and UVB. SPF 30 blocks ~97% of UVB; SPF 50 blocks ~98%. No sunscreen blocks 100%. Apply 2mg/cm² (about a shot glass for the body) and reapply every 2 hours outdoors.
Exfoliation
aka: AHA, BHA, Enzyme ExfoliationRemoving dead skin cells physically (scrubs, brushes) or chemically (AHAs, BHAs, enzymes). Chemical exfoliants are generally safer because they dissolve the glue between cells rather than abrade them. Start with 1–2 times per week.
Toner
aka: Essence, Hydrating Toner, Acid TonerA liquid applied after cleansing to restore pH, add hydration, or deliver light actives. Modern toners are mostly hydrating or exfoliating; old-fashioned astringent toners with high alcohol are largely obsolete.
Glass Skin
aka: Translucent Skin, Dewy SkinA Korean beauty ideal describing skin so dewy, translucent, and bouncy it looks like glass. Achieved through barrier support, hydration layering (toner → essence → serum → moisturiser), SPF, and consistent exfoliation — not one miracle product.
Makeup
Lip Oil
aka: Lip Gloss Oil, Tinted Lip OilA hybrid between lip care and colour. Typically contains jojoba, castor, or squalane oil with a light tint. Provides shine without the dryness of traditional lipstick. Best applied over lip liner for longevity.
Setting Spray
aka: Makeup Fixer, Finishing SprayA finishing product that either locks makeup in place (polymer-based) or adds dewiness (glycerin-based). Use a dewy spray before powder and a matte spray after, or skip if your foundation is already long-wear.
Primer
aka: Makeup Primer, BaseA base layer applied after moisturiser and before foundation. Smooths texture, blurs pores, and extends wear. Silicone-based primers suit dry skin; water-based primers suit oily or acne-prone skin.
Foundation
aka: Base Makeup, Face MakeupA base product that evens skin tone and provides coverage. Formulations range from sheer tinted moisturiser to full-coverage matte. Match to jawline, not neck, and blend while damp for a skin-like finish.
Silicone
aka: Dimethicone, CyclomethiconeA class of ingredients (dimethicone, cyclomethicone, etc.) that give slip, blur, and water resistance. Not inherently bad — many dermatologists recommend them — but layering silicone on silicone is a common cause of pilling and breakouts.
Lipstick
aka: Lip Colour, LipstickA coloured wax-based product for the lips. Formulations range from matte to creamy to glossy. Long-wear formulas use film-forming polymers; moisturising formulas use oils and esters.
Lip Liner
aka: Lip Pencil, Lip Liner PencilA pencil or liquid product used to define the lip edge and prevent lipstick from bleeding. Can also be used all-over as a matte lip stain. Choose a shade slightly deeper than your lipstick for depth, or match for a clean line.
Hair
Bond Repair
aka: Bond Builder, Keratin Bond TreatmentA treatment category (popularised by Olaplex) that uses disulfide bond-building technology to reconnect broken keratin bonds in chemically treated hair. Most effective when used immediately after colour or heat styling, not as a replacement for protein treatments.
Keratin
aka: Keratin Treatment, Brazilian BlowoutA structural protein that makes up hair, nails, and the outer skin layer. Keratin treatments straighten and smooth by coating the hair shaft. Works best on coarse or frizzy hair; less dramatic on fine hair.
Protein Treatment
aka: Hair Mask, Protein PackA weekly or bi-weekly treatment that reinforces hair with hydrolysed proteins (keratin, silk, wheat). Use when hair feels mushy or gummy. Overuse on low-porosity hair causes stiffness and breakage.
Fashion
Capsule Wardrobe
aka: Minimal Wardrobe, Edit WardrobeA small collection of versatile pieces that mix and match to create many outfits. The classic formula is ~30–40 items for a season. Focus on fit, fabric weight, and neutral palette with one accent colour.
Quiet Luxury
aka: Stealth Wealth, Old Money AestheticDressing with intention rather than logos. Replaces overt branding with fabric weight, seam finishing, and silhouette. Invest in fewer, better pieces: a well-cut blazer, merino knit, straight-leg trousers, and full-grain leather goods.
Minimalist Wardrobe
aka: Minimal Wardrobe, Capsule WardrobeA wardrobe reduced to essential, high-quality pieces that mix and match seamlessly. Emphasises longevity, versatility, and intentional purchases over fast-fashion volume.
Sustainable Fashion
aka: Ethical Fashion, Conscious FashionClothing produced and consumed in ways that minimise environmental impact: organic or recycled fibres, ethical manufacturing, transparent supply chains, and longevity over trend.
Wellness
Collagen Peptides
aka: Hydrolysed Collagen, Collagen PowderHydrolysed collagen supplements (usually bovine or marine) that provide amino acids for skin, hair, and joint support. Most studies use 10g daily with vitamin C. Effects are modest and cumulative over 8–12 weeks.
Omega-3
aka: Fish Oil, ALA, EPA/DHAEssential fatty acids (EPA and DHA) found in fish oil, algae, and flaxseed. Supports skin barrier function, reduces inflammation, and may improve hydration. Most evidence is anecdotal for skin; strongest for cardiovascular health.